The Car Maintenance Thread

Just found out today my car has blown another casket in two cylinders.
I only had the same issue repaired 18 months ago fooooook! So now awaiting quote with dread ..last time was $1,600

Going to repair this last time - and save and look around for another car.
 
Just a warning to all those who blow off timing belt changes till they break, Don't do it.

Picked up the head today after a valve job, I got lucky it was not worse.
 
I love my impact wrench!

I got it at Harbor Freight but it really does a good job. Its the battery powered one. I dont know how I got along without it really.

Im trying to save up for a compressor and tools now.

Try not to use it too often...you'll find Harbor Freight (cheap china knockoff imports) barely last for a job or two.
 
Just a warning to all those who blow off timing belt changes till they break, Don't do it.
...

Actually - There are interference and non-interference engines. My VW GTIs have interference engines. The valves (all 5 per cylinder) hang into the piston space at times and if the timing belt goes the pistons will scrambled the valves and valve trains (both cams). A normal VW Golf has a non-interference engine and if the timing belt goes bad the engine just stops. No damage.
 
Just found out today my car has blown another casket in two cylinders.
I only had the same issue repaired 18 months ago fooooook! So now awaiting quote with dread ..last time was $1,600

Going to repair this last time - and save and look around for another car.

Which gasket?

Sounds like a botched job from last time. I bet they didnt even bother to see if the heads where level / flat and not warped. Probably just replaced gasket(s) and called it good.
 
Actually - There are interference and non-interference engines. My VW GTIs have interference engines. The valves (all 5 per cylinder) hang into the piston space at times and if the timing belt goes the pistons will scrambled the valves and valve trains (both cams). A normal VW Golf has a non-interference engine and if the timing belt goes bad the engine just stops. No damage.

Yeah my first wife had a knack of finding out which an engine was. The first time she blew a timing chain in her Honda Civic....we found out the Hondas have interference engines...once the timing chain went, all sorts of collisions in the head there. Expensive repair on that engine. Her second car was a Subaru...she had the timing belt let go on the highway, just coasted to a stop, towed to the same mechanic, simple replacement of the timing belt. Non interference engine in that Scooby boxer flat 4 so no engine damage.
 
Yeah my first wife had a knack of finding out which an engine was. The first time she blew a timing chain in her Honda Civic....we found out the Hondas have interference engines...once the timing chain went, all sorts of collisions in the head there. Expensive repair on that engine. Her second car was a Subaru...she had the timing belt let go on the highway, just coasted to a stop, towed to the same mechanic, simple replacement of the timing belt. Non interference engine in that Scooby boxer flat 4 so no engine damage.


How did you blow two timing chains/belts? That's amazing! I have driven all overhead-valve engines since owning cars and have yet to blow any timing belts/chains even when doging the engines hard!
 
How did you blow two timing chains/belts? That's amazing! I have driven all overhead-valve engines since owning cars and have yet to blow any timing belts/chains even when doging the engines hard!

Tell me about it. I've been driving many cars since the 80's (legally) (illegally before that) and drive them all hard and also never had timing belt or chain issue...but being able to say that won't get you a cup of coffee.

The Honda Civic...the mechanic (who was VERY good)..told us "after the fact"...yup, every 65,000 miles there's a certain bolt that holds the..<some lower sprocket for the chain> that you HAVE to change every 65,000 miles. Known issue, they fatique and let go!

So we never know about that until after the fact of course, and if I recall (going back to the early 90's here)...she had just topped 70k miles.

As for the Scooby...just luck of the draw I guess on that one, I've had 3 Scoobys in my lifetime and drove them all hard (as I do with all my vehicles) zero issues. Hers..just her luck I guess.
 
Actually - There are interference and non-interference engines.

This. Find out what your car has now, figure out when the belt was changed last and when it needs to be done next and put it on your calendar. I had a 74 Fiat Spider in college, great little car, but mechanically complicated. Dual OHC, 2 plugs per cylinder & dual points in the distributor. Dropped a belt on that and bent all of the valves - that was a lot of money for a poor college student, let me tell you. I ended up selling the car after that to get out from under the repair debt it kept me in. Good times.
 
I usually do my own oil changes because my dealer charges like $90. Even made my own low-profile ramp extensions, so the bumper doesn't scrape. I then put it in park, lock the parking brake, chalk the rear wheels, and finally toss some jack stands under where I am working.


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This is how I make my proof of what went in, what date, how many miles...

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Proof it came out:

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Filter change:

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I usually run only Mobil 1, but I got Pennzoil this time, which is Shell's flag-ship brand in the USA. Worked out to 5 quarts (4.73 liters) for about $24 AFTER tax. Then I had a web rebate (no mailing) for $10 back... making it only $14. Considering this is made from NaturalGas-To-Liquid and meets API-SN Plus, ACEA, and GM dexos it's pretty good stuff.

That is only $2.80 per quart!

For all my British friends that works out to 2.23 £ per liter


I do the oil changes every 3,750 miles, which is 6,035 kilometers. Always gets a new OE filter and crush-washer.



*****

The problem is when you go other places, you are reliant upon others who often don't care and sometimes unscrupulous managers who try to save a few bucks doing the bait & switch selling you a more expensive oil than you actually get. In fact some places give you non-synthetic even if you pay, and quite a few got busted a few years back buying non-API rated oil that may cause excess engine wear and damage.

Generally, car dealerships are good, safe places, but they are usually quite expensive.
 
Heh - I have to use the "cheater" blocks for my ramps too so the ramps clear the front skirt.

Only - 3,750 miles on full synthetic? (That's old petrol based oil standards.) You should read the studies. I run 10,000 miles between changes on full synthetic but even at 15,000 miles there still isn't a problem according to the tests (Mobil One, Valvoline, etc.) I've read. One of my VW GTIs has 230,000+ miles on it and it uses one quart between 10,000 mile oil changes and it has had full synthetic all its life at 10,000 mile changes.

@add - VW finally got it right and put their filters top side where they can be changed without spilling a drop even though they remove upside down.
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I had a 74 Fiat Spider in college, great little car, but mechanically complicated. Dual OHC, 2 plugs per cylinder & dual points in the distributor. Dropped a belt on that and bent all of the valves - that was a lot of money for a poor college student, let me tell you.
Ouch.

My old S8 has an interference engine ... 8 cylinders and 5 valves per cylinder too :eek:

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The thought of a cam belt snapping frightens the hell out of me ... It would likely result in 40 bent valves and an engine beyond repair. And good replacement engines for these things are near impossible to find now.

So despite a low annual mileage of just 5-10K, it gets a new belt, pulleys, idlers, tensioners .... the lot, every couple of years.
 
My newer Mk6 GTI has a timing chain in oil (think goodness) and I'm not even sure when replacement is recommended on that. It's the older Mk4 that is on its third belt (no breaks, just routine changes every 100,000 miles). I also had the VW dealership do each one as that is something that needs to be to spec and don't want a local guessing at it. I don't mind changing the timing belt on the older non-interference VW engines (PIA!) but won't touch the double overhead cam GTI engine timing belts.
 
I only do small jobs on my cars these days. I don't have the time or the tools to do any big jobs.

Fortunately I have a number of garage customers, and they charge me less for working on my car than I charge them for working on their computers. I also use the car for business, so all repairs and servicing costs are 95% tax deductible :)
 
My beater car is an old 2002 Kia Rio hatchback. Already had the transmission done a year ago 4 new tires a month ago and relicensed it a week before this happened. I got off easy so far $892 valve job timing belt kit and oil change. Car has 160k on it.
 
I do the oil changes every 3,750 miles, which is 6,035 kilometers. Always gets a new OE filter and crush-washer.

That seems excessive. I do 10K miles on synthetic like @Diggs . Although if you have the time and don't mind the expense, it's a good chance to get your hands dirty and get under the car to see what's up, I'll admit.
 
@add - VW finally got it right and put their filters top side

I have wondered for years why car makers didn't do this. At least 1 engine by 1 maker gave ease-of-maintenance a thought. I can't remember what car it was I had, but the damned oil filter was right on top of the engine cradle. Absolutely no way to take that thing off without making a mess. Not to mention the plastic areo plates that you have to take off on some cars to even see the filter...
 
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