The Car Maintenance Thread

Just got a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee over the weekend. It's arctic blue with the 3.7L V6


I'm planning on learning / doing a lot of the maintenance on the vehicle.... as most of it does seem simple enough from the videos I've watched.

Starting off with replacing the spark plugs, differential oil and flushing / refilling the coolant.

The dealership we bought it from quoted me $179 to replace the spark plugs..

They wrote down the OEM part number, which I searched and found the factory part number. An NGK spark plug which is $2 each online, were marked down for 8.99 on their invoice. As bad as that is, they were charging nearly $100 for a half an hours worth (hour tops) of labor.

No thanks, I'll spend $15 on plugs and do it myself. Once the air box is off, the ignition coils are very easy to get at.


For the other stuff, we got a 60,000 mile//5 year bumper to bumper warrant for $2,000.00 with a $50 deductible.
 
brandonkick said:
Just got a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee over the weekend. It's arctic blue with the 3.7L V6


I'm planning on learning / doing a lot of the maintenance on the vehicle.... as most of it does seem simple enough from the videos I've watched.

Starting off with replacing the spark plugs, differential oil and flushing / refilling the coolant.

The dealership we bought it from quoted me $179 to replace the spark plugs..

They wrote down the OEM part number, which I searched and found the factory part number. An NGK spark plug which is $2 each online, were marked down for 8.99 on their invoice. As bad as that is, they were charging nearly $100 for a half an hours worth (hour tops) of labor.

No thanks, I'll spend $15 on plugs and do it myself. Once the air box is off, the ignition coils are very easy to get at.


For the other stuff, we got a 60,000 mile//5 year bumper to bumper warrant for $2,000.00 with a $50 deductible.
Click to expand...

Sounds very nice. How many miles on this jeep?

You can get the service guide online that downloads as pdf's for about 18 bucks I think. I got mine a few days ago.

http://www.carfsm.com


coffee
 
Yup the stealerships will hit your wallet hard even for things as simple as spark plugs or an oil change. Things so easy a 12 year old can do them.

Don't have to limit yourself to NGK's....mine seemed to be happier with Autolites.
 
coffee said:
Sounds very nice. How many miles on this jeep?

You can get the service guide online that downloads as pdf's for about 18 bucks I think. I got mine a few days ago.

http://www.carfsm.com


coffee
Click to expand...

I didn't see one for a 2010 WK Jeep Grand Cherokee. It's got 57,000 miles on it. Listed at 13,900 and with warranty, title, taxes and other fees I got it out for door for just under $18,000

5 year - 60,000 miles warranty which covers parts plus labor bumper to bumper with a 50 dollar deductible.

Also 5 year coverage on the interior, anything rips, tears, or stains and they fix it for free

YeOldeStonecat said:
Yup the stealerships will hit your wallet hard even for things as simple as spark plugs or an oil change. Things so easy a 12 year old can do them.

Don't have to limit yourself to NGK's....mine seemed to be happier with Autolites.
Click to expand...

From a bit of the reading I've done, I gather I should stick to copper plugs? Is this your experience? What year is your jeep?

And man oh man! $179 for changing these things? I seriously think I can do it in less than an hour and it would be the first set of plugs I've ever changed!

I'll be doing EVERYTHING I can do on my own. Helps that my father is a mechanic and has a garage with lifts, tools and the whole 9 yards. He can stop me / guide me if I'm about to do something stupid :D
 
I probably used the copper cores....generally prefer Autolite when I can.
I had 3x Jeeps.
An old TJ with the old 4.2L I6, had that built up a bit, went through 2x lift kits and tons of heavy duty custom parts underneath, lots of off roading with that one.
Had a YJ after that, the 4.0 I6...did Borla stainless headers and exhaust, mild lift, beefed rear end, did moderate off roading with that but she'd top 100 on the highway...
Had a Liberty after that...family..needed room and cargo carrying. The 3.7. Not really a "Jeep Jeep" for me...but had her for 120k miles or so. Tranny died 3x days before I was set to trade it on for my current RAM pickup.

All my Jeeps lived hard lives...long hard lives. A full 4 seasons of New England weather...deep snow, off roading, living along the ocean so salt water, hauling my boats on trailer in and out of boat launches in the salt water, my crazy driving at 100+, towing utility trailers....man...great vehicles, rugged.

Really miss my old one. Did a LOT in that Jeep....had her all over....put a lotta miles in her.
 
brandonkick said:
Just got a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee over the weekend. It's arctic blue with the 3.7L V6


I'm planning on learning / doing a lot of the maintenance on the vehicle.... as most of it does seem simple enough from the videos I've watched.

Starting off with replacing the spark plugs, differential oil and flushing / refilling the coolant.

The dealership we bought it from quoted me $179 to replace the spark plugs..

They wrote down the OEM part number, which I searched and found the factory part number. An NGK spark plug which is $2 each online, were marked down for 8.99 on their invoice. As bad as that is, they were charging nearly $100 for a half an hours worth (hour tops) of labor.

No thanks, I'll spend $15 on plugs and do it myself. Once the air box is off, the ignition coils are very easy to get at.


For the other stuff, we got a 60,000 mile//5 year bumper to bumper warrant for $2,000.00 with a $50 deductible.
Click to expand...

$179.00 to replace spark plugs!

That's as bad a Tech charging $75.00 or more for a 1/2 hour LCD replacement!

LOL

It's all relevant, I'm sure some of our customers do "some" of their own work on machines.

Do what you are comfortable with and send out the rest.
 
brandonkick said:
No thanks, I'll spend $15 on plugs and do it myself. Once the air box is off, the ignition coils are very easy to get at.
Click to expand...

In my Dodge Ram I installed the factory recommended copper plug. So should you. There are lots of miracle plugs flooding the market with lots of claims but I find the factory knows best. Plus the factory plug was the cheapest and you need 16 of them in the Hemi.

Mark the plugs you remove so you know exactly what cylinder they came out of. Their color tells you a lot about the health of the engine. Gap the plugs. Put a bit of anti-seize compound on the plug threads. You'll thank me in 5 years when you do this again. Also, put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug wire boot/coil pack. To avoid cross-threading the plugs start them by hand. The threads in your aluminum head will lose to the steel plug threads every time.

Good luck and buy some tools with all the coin you will save!
 
YeOldeStonecat said:
I know aint' that a pain? Esp those rear 2....

..but it's so worth it when you mash your right foot down and unleash 390 horses from the corral!
Click to expand...

I've left a few layers of epidermis on that damn brake booster getting to those plugs!

My Hemi is older so it "only" has 345 ponies but I know exactly what you're saying.
 
HFultzjr said:
$179.00 to replace spark plugs!

That's as bad a Tech charging $75.00 or more for a 1/2 hour LCD replacement!

LOL

It's all relevant, I'm sure some of our customers do "some" of their own work on machines.

Do what you are comfortable with and send out the rest.
Click to expand...

I guess I can kind of understand that. But then again I've never charged $75 labor to replace a screen. Either you know how to do the work, are willing to learn how to do the work, or your going to have to be willing to pay someone that does know!

mr m said:
In my Dodge Ram I installed the factory recommended copper plug. So should you. There are lots of miracle plugs flooding the market with lots of claims but I find the factory knows best. Plus the factory plug was the cheapest and you need 16 of them in the Hemi.

Mark the plugs you remove so you know exactly what cylinder they came out of. Their color tells you a lot about the health of the engine. Gap the plugs. Put a bit of anti-seize compound on the plug threads. You'll thank me in 5 years when you do this again. Also, put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug wire boot/coil pack. To avoid cross-threading the plugs start them by hand. The threads in your aluminum head will lose to the steel plug threads every time.

Good luck and buy some tools with all the coin you will save!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm going with what was in their by the OEM. Except that I'm only paying $2 a plug and not $8. They say the NGK plugs I was looking at are already correctly gapped, but I'll double check em with a gap tool. I think these should be .044, and they come already gapped but never hurts to check.

I'm also going to order some anti-seize compound unless my father already has some, which he should.

What do you mean about the dielectric silicone grease? I'm not sure I know exactly what that means?
 
I see you guys recommending anti-seize on your sparks plugs, and thought I'd through my 2c in. I have always been told "Dont use any additives on your plugs, aside from Dielectric on the tip!" Why you ask? Simply because of the high vibrations combined with the massive out-ward pushing force (compression), combined with a lubed bolt. AKA they could potentially back out of the hole. Now, I have never seen this happen because of anti-seize, but I have seen the aftermath of a spark plug going through the hood (and the intake manifold, and all the other crap on top). Let me tell you its not pretty, and is pretty much a good way to total your engine.

That being said, I have never met a plug that wouldn't come out. Tractors are usually bears, but they come out. I have broke the ceramic off more than a few, but that's just the top. Usually, if it wont come out, I scale up to 1/2" drive. If it still wont come out, I go after the breaker bar (very rare). If it still wont come out, well you got problems beyond a stuck spark plug. Most likely got some water where it don't belong! Because of the heat in the area and evaporation, that means continuous water, which means a blown head gasket... typically...

Basically what I'm saying is: anti-seize on spark plugs is like grease on a lug nut. Sure, makes the job easier, but it might come off going down the road....

Just my thoughts. YMMV
 
OK!

I have always had a problem with tools around the house. Seems whenever I want to work on my car I cannot find all my tools or a specific one. Dont you just hate it ? Lets spend 1/2 hour looking for a darn tool or part that you know you have just to fix something that will only take a few minutes? Or perhaps the wife or kids used it last and "IDONTKNOW" took the tool and now its lost. I have solved this issue:

20140725_114735_zps223c75a9.jpg


This is a tool chest from Harbor Freight. This puppy is good contruction with heavy steal and provides ample storage for about all your tools. Best of all, It was under 400 bucks (tax included). The tool cabinet comes in 2 boxes. I was able to fit it in my buick (backseat, trunk with bunge cords). Assembly is pretty darn easy. Just have to put on the caster wheels and the side handle.

The cabinet comes with smooth sliding drawers, Top that opens and is supported by shocks, 2 locks - one for top and one for bottom cabinet. Each drawer is lined with decent rubber foam like liners.

My neighbor came over and checked it out. He is a snapon man and has a very expensive cabinet for his tools (1000+) and he loved it. Said it was same construction as his snapon. He is looking to pick one up also.

If you go for something like this at HF, Inspect the cabinet carefully. They have an issue with shipping and I had to return my bottom cabinet because it was dropped and the front corners where crushed.

coffee
 
I just bought a buffer via ebay on friday for $50.00, delivered today awesome. I have a lot of scratches on my car. Most due to me but some from others, such as a SUV scraping up my entire LHS in a parking lot grrr.
 
Yeah I picked up the 5x drawer black one from HF a while ago....they often have some mega sales. "US General" is the brand they slap on it. Picked up my motorcycle lift there last year too. "Pittsburg Automotive" is the brand they use for their jacks.

The 5x drawer chest needed full assembly...but had it done in under an hour and a few beers. Nice unit consider it's "made in China" junk. But hey for 99 bucks...not gonna complain.

The hydraulic life for my bike is "sorta OK" quality wise. I feel OK once I put the lock lever on. Wouldn't trust the bottle jack for long periods of time on just hydraulics alone. But hey...got that for like 55 bucks....after stacking up a few coupons.

There's a HF store about 7 minutes from me.
Their tools are minimal quality...but hey, for the dirt cheap prices...if you're very light use on them, they'll do OK. Don't trust them for lots of heavy work...especially on very stubborn bolts 'n stuff (you'll find you'll strip the tools or round the heads or hex holes or whatever very easily).
 
Last edited:
Love Harbor Freight stuff! As said above, if used correctly, it will last a long time for cheap.

My angle grinder was a $30 HF special. Have fabricated so much stuff with it I cant begin to list it. Have used and abused it, and it still is one of my best tools in my shop!
I also got spring compressors ($25) that have changed struts on 4 different cars now, along with being used as a clamping system for something completely unrelated (multiple times). And my Pickle Fork ( $10) has busted 10's if not 100's of ball joints/tie rods/CV shafts/etc. Also, a small set of jewelers files is a must for any shop, and are like $8 for ten I think... been awhile, haven't broke most of em yet. I would not, however, ever be tempted to buy a hammer there....

My biggest let down from HF so far has been the Air Compressor ($130). Last winter it wouldn't come on. Motor would make a half of a revolution then stop and trip the internal breaker. Luckily, it was a problem with the breaker, not the Air Compressor. So we bypassed the breaker, and have been happily painting, airing, blowing, and what not ever since...
 
coffee said:
OK!

I have always had a problem with tools around the house. Seems whenever I want to work on my car I cannot find all my tools or a specific one. Dont you just hate it ? Lets spend 1/2 hour looking for a darn tool or part that you know you have just to fix something that will only take a few minutes? Or perhaps the wife or kids used it last and "IDONTKNOW" took the tool and now its lost. I have solved this issue:

20140725_114735_zps223c75a9.jpg


This is a tool chest from Harbor Freight. This puppy is good contruction with heavy steal and provides ample storage for about all your tools. Best of all, It was under 400 bucks (tax included). The tool cabinet comes in 2 boxes. I was able to fit it in my buick (backseat, trunk with bunge cords). Assembly is pretty darn easy. Just have to put on the caster wheels and the side handle.

The cabinet comes with smooth sliding drawers, Top that opens and is supported by shocks, 2 locks - one for top and one for bottom cabinet. Each drawer is lined with decent rubber foam like liners.

My neighbor came over and checked it out. He is a snapon man and has a very expensive cabinet for his tools (1000+) and he loved it. Said it was same construction as his snapon. He is looking to pick one up also.

If you go for something like this at HF, Inspect the cabinet carefully. They have an issue with shipping and I had to return my bottom cabinet because it was dropped and the front corners where crushed.

coffee
Click to expand...

Looks pretty darn good, I don't have a place to put something like that even if I wanted it (and don't have 1/4 of the tools to fill it) but it's what I would buy if I were in need of a tool box. Again this is for me, the weekend warrior. No important work or income comes from myself using the toolbox or the tools within. If I were to be swinging wrenches for a living, I would probably opt for a highly quality.

frase said:
I just bought a buffer via ebay on friday for $50.00, delivered today awesome. I have a lot of scratches on my car. Most due to me but some from others, such as a SUV scraping up my entire LHS in a parking lot grrr.
Click to expand...

That is a whole new ball of wax. Be VERY careful with what your doing. Be sure to use proper polishes/compounds and to use the correct tools and techniques. A cheapo buffer with any ole junk polishing pad and the wrong speeds (buffer speeds) and technique can wind up wrecking your paint more then it is already.

Look up the junkman on youtube, and watch his detailing/polishing videos.


@HF Tools

They are usually not of super high quality, but I can tell you this. WHen I still worked for my uncle, I built a toolbox of everything I needed to repair arcade equipment for a little over $100.

Screw drivers, pliers, wrenches, socket set with ratchets, hammer, zip ties, magnetic wand, pick set, flash lights, tape measure, heat shrink, and more...

I've almost never had a problem with any of it, in fact most of it was great.

Got way more use out of it so far than the $100, and almost all of it is still going strong!
 
If I were a actual Mechanic I would be buying snapon or some other high end tools. However, I am a computer tech trying to survive by doing the work myself. So, HF is just the place for me. Sure there are cheap stuff in there. But just look it over real well and you shouldnt have an issue with anything. Besides, Their very good at taking things back on warranty.

@YeOldStoneCat - I didnt like that black tool chest that you mentioned - If its the same one you mentioned (?). It didnt look as well built as the "General" one. But then it was not as expensive so I can understand that.

coffee
 
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