New to soldering and want to learn. Aoyue 2703a+?

Dan_J

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Hi Guys, I have been doing a bit of research on different soldering irons and work stations. I've seen this one http://www.aoyue.com/en/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=436 several times and it seems like a pretty good value. Do any of you have experience with this kit? Can you suggest perhaps a better option?

I'd love to have a discussion about irons lol.

Thanks again guys,

Dan
 
Hey, thanks for the link to the other post. I'm reading over it now. I would rather spend a bit more money and get a great reliable product that may make my life a little easier. Just want to make sure that one is a good choice, and if not what may be a better choice.

Thanks,

Dan
 
I have several different stations around my shop, but my old reliable is my 2702a+, which is probably an older version of the one you are looking at. I have used it well over 500 times (probably closer to 1,000) and so far only had to replace soldering tips a few times.

Whats the most important thing is to learn how to solder and understand how different tips, solder and fluxes work, not just use hot air.

EDIT: Be sure to buy it from a seller in your country, do not buy direct from China unless you live there.
 
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Thanks NY Jimbo. Your word means a lot because of your immense experience in the field. I plan to use it to practice on my ever growing stock of old boards or failed equipment. I will most likely purchase some hobby kits and make some of my own devices. I plan to put in a lot of time practicing with success before I charge for the service. It seems like a really neat and enjoyable process, and a great skill to have in the toolbox even for personal use.

Thanks,

Dan
 
Just expect some frustration when you start. You wont be able to desolder some things "for some reason" or you might damage something or you might think you could never work on really small parts. But if you practice, watch youtube videos (by people who know their stuff, not the thousands of idiots who desoldered one thing and want to share it with you) and learn about stuff like fluxes, solders, wicks, etc, it will all come together and you will be able to work on most things on a motherboard.

Very large chips with hundreds of legs or BGA chips are too much work and sometimes you cant get the part or cant do a reliable repair unless you have very high end equipment. But almost all the other stuff you can learn to do, especially DC jacks, fuses, mosfets, bios, usb/sound/hdmi/vga/etc ports, which is what breaks or fails the most and can be repaired for a few bucks if you got the skill and you can charge nice money because very few people in your area will do that kind of work.
 
Hi Dan,

I have that exact model and am very pleased with it. It does "everything" that a pc tech will need & more. The iron with the attached air tube/smoke absorber is a little cumbersome, but you get used to it.

The other issue/minor gripe is that the iron handle is small and can get quite warm to the touch if you do a lot of soldering at once. Other than that, I am very pleased with it.
 
The iron with the attached air tube/smoke absorber is a little cumbersome, but you get used to it.

LOL, I got so tired of the noise from that thing I turned it off a long time ago. Its a nice design but that machine really puts out a racket when using the absorber. :p
 
Hakko makes some great soldering stations. Mine have lasted the ages

The army taught me too solder. And one of the first things they had us do, for about a week, was take resistors, pc boards, and other components and make things. No joke, just spend about $50 at radio shavk on cheap components, a few pc borads, and there ya go. The perfect bead is hard to achieve.

Use this to also learn how to desolder, not burn the board or other closely packed componets, etc. I prefer a desoldering wick, over my desoldering pump (manual and iron ones) call me old fashioned, but I prefer the wick.

You can get a lot of your supplies from eadioshack on the cheap. Soldering iron tinning, wicks, etc. Flux, I don't use much in the way of flux ever, but I still keep a jar handy. I would also recommend watching some youtube on what you need, and how to do it.

Once you feel comfortable, go to radioshack, buy a soldering kit (I did a radio) and go to town. Takes about 1 to 2 days if your new. I can knock them out now in about 6 hours with a smoke break every hour.

Word of advice, I needed a cheap soldering iron for something, don't remeber what, but I got it from radioshack, and the iron tip melted away after a day of use...disapointing...so don't buy a radioshack iron, buy something with more quality.

And you don't need a bunch of different stations. You aren't doing specialty work. My regular, old hakko single soldering iron station with a turn dial for temp gets the most work than any of the others. My dual iron, one for the iron one for the desolder, gets used the least. They are easy to calibrate if you have to, I've only done it once in 4+ years I've owned it, and that was because I bought new soldering iron cause my cord got damaged.

Best of luck.
 
Flux, I don't use much in the way of flux ever, but I still keep a jar handy.

Do you do laptop motherboard work, smd circuits and the like ? I cannot imagine working on a laptop motherboard without having flux always at the ready, both paste and liquid.
 
When you're learning and practicing, build something practical. I got my start many years ago with soldering to support my audiophile hobby. I have since put together an almost completely DIY home audio system that is of much higher quality than I would ever have been able to afford off-the-shelf (pre-amp, phono pre-amp, power supplies, amplifiers, speakers, cables and interconnects, and so on). You can get a lot of exposure to all sorts of soldering situations by doing this. You'll not only be just stuffing (and unstuffing when you mess up) PCB's with components, but dealing with internal wiring, switches, pots, jacks and binding posts, etc. It's a lot of work, and not for the faint of heart if you will be dealing with mains input voltages, but it's fun if you are careful and know what you are doing...until you burn your fingers the first time :D.
 
Thanks guys, I'm getting even more excited for this endeavor now. I understand circuitry well and intend to build myself a few gadgets for starters. A radio sounds pretty cool!

Building my own home audio system would be a feat! I'm certainly not ready for that yet. However it's certainly something I would like to work toward. I'm very good with carpentry and welding. It would be pretty nice to find a way to combine the 2 skills to make my life a bit easier.

Dan
 
Thanks guys, I'm getting even more excited for this endeavor now. I understand circuitry well and intend to build myself a few gadgets for starters. A radio sounds pretty cool!

Building my own home audio system would be a feat! I'm certainly not ready for that yet. However it's certainly something I would like to work toward. I'm very good with carpentry and welding. It would be pretty nice to find a way to combine the 2 skills to make my life a bit easier.

Dan

Actually, it's not as difficult as it sounds. I can highly recommend Rod Elliot's site for all sorts of good info:
http://sound.westhost.com/index2.html

He even has PCB's available for many of his projects with comprehensive instructions. He's located in Australia, but does ship to the US and elsewhere at reasonable rates. I can personally attest to the quality of projects 05A, 06, 88, and 97. This combo makes a truly outstanding stereo pre-amp with a very, very good phono input if you have a turntable (MM cartridge only, no MC).

Here's a list by category of what he has available:

http://sound.westhost.com/projects-0.htm

I also highly recommend his articles if you are interested in general theory and design.
 
Do you do laptop motherboard work, smd circuits and the like ? I cannot imagine working on a laptop motherboard without having flux always at the ready, both paste and liquid.

I worked as a tech in a Mil-Spec assembly house, where i was taught to solder. I was taught that flux is your friend. It makes things easier for dissassembly and leads to better joints. And as NYjimbo pointed out, Bismuth can be your buddy.

I also like wick, but there are times the spring pump is handy to clear a through hole after the part is removed.
 
Just starting out with soldering as well. Can anyone point me to some GOOD Youtube videos or other resources? As NYJimbo state, there are some bad ones so I would like to find some that use best practices. At this point, I can't differentiate between the good and bad. :-)
 
Just starting out with soldering as well. Can anyone point me to some GOOD Youtube videos or other resources? As NYJimbo state, there are some bad ones so I would like to find some that use best practices. At this point, I can't differentiate between the good and bad. :-)

I only just started learning myself. Spent a long time trying to find videos of people who clearly knew what they were doing, and ended up finding this series. Its clearly an old training video put out a couple decades ago for a company's employees, but its easily the best I found on youtube. Make sure you watch all the parts.

Still not good enough to do anything advanced on my own, but I've replaced USB ports and DC Jacks on game consoles. Going to take a look at Silverleaf's links to see if I can advance my skills with a real ground-up project.

EDIT: Hah, a link to the video might help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s&list=FLFqVFLs-rkc8SmlZsMHEEhQ&index=2
 
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Jimbo, yes I do motherboards. Most of the time, a small dab of fresh solder helps remove it just fine, and leaves a clean board behind with the wick. I use rosin-core solder, hence why I rarely need to use flux. Maybe I should have said, use flux out the jar. It's only when I'm using less than a .032 diameter, will I need to use flux. Typically, a .032-.062 is thin enough for application on most motherboard repairs that come through the door, such as DC and USB ports. I find myself using .05 diameter solder the most, usually rosin-core 63/37 tin-lead solder, or a rosin-core 60/40 tin-lead solder.

If I'm using a Silver or Lead-Free based solder, as I typically buy silver solder without a rosin-core and lead-free with, I will most definitely use an RMA flux.

I also make sure I get RMA or RA flux type. Typically a ROM1, REM1 or a ORM1 is good enough for what I do. Don't get a No-clean (or ROL0/1), this flux really doesn't do anything, and does even less with a lead-free solder.
 
Don't get a No-clean (or ROL0/1), this flux really doesn't do anything, and does even less with a lead-free solder.

I use no-clean flux every single day, especially with lead free. Its like KY Jelly but for soldered parts. We must be living in parallel universes. :p
 
I also like wick, but there are times the spring pump is handy to clear a through hole after the part is removed.

I am 100% wick now, it might be because I do so many tiny parts that don't have enough solder to make it worth sucking or I cant get the tip in close enough. The right wicks, sometimes primed with a good liquid no clean flux, is incredible for pulling up even the most recalcitrant solder. I have been using various NTE wicks and I really like them but sometimes will prime them with Circuit Works CW3220 Lead Free Flux if I really want to draw every last drop out.
 
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