Having trouble desoldering a dc jack

Reaction score
6
I am in the process of trying to replace the dc jack in an ASUS EEE PC netbook and the solder on the contacts is not coming off. I have tried a 25w, and 40w iron and the Shack special 165w/230w soldering gun. The only way the jack would come of was with some careful cutting. I still have the 4 holes to clear out so i can install the new jack. My Dremel wants to tap in on this one to help.

Any suggestions or ideas appreciated.

Basil
 
I would suggest a non radio shack soldering iron at the very least (cheap tips, don't transfer heat very well) or ideally a hot air rework station.

Use some solder flux on the joints you are desoldering to gain a better thermal transfer.
 
Well, now is not the time for it but when this job is done you should watch some videos on through hole soldering to familiarize yourself with different methods. Also adding new leaded solder, using hot air, adding low melt (bismuth or other) solder, etc all help to get the job done. Its also extremely important that the soldering tip is the correct type and it is tinned or cleaned to provide maximum heat transfer.

The combination of lead free solder, many pins on the jack and the jack itself acting as a heatsink and the thickness of the motherboard and any nearby large metal all steal heat or require more heat at the contact point. It is much harder to remove through hole components than just surface mount.

Try to get some old motherboards and work on removing DC jacks, usb ports, sound ports, etc to see what methods you need to use and learn from any mistakes you might make.

DC jack work can be very difficult if you do not have the proper tools and methods.
 
An old trick I sometimes use is to melt the pads from side to side while pushing from side to side to rock the component out of the socket. Granted if you had a hot air station you could just pull it right out.


Example:
Push -> and up away from the board
Pin Pin Pin
Heat1st Heat2nd

then
<-Push and up away from the board
Pin Pin Pin
Heat2nd Heat 1st
 
if you have the dc jack cut off and its just the pins in there, i heat the top side with a regular welder, then put a solder sucker on the bottom side to suck out the solder
 
I always cut the legs/pins with a fine pair of wire cutters.
Then I heat up each leg on the solder side of the board, pushing gently downwards and then use a solder brush on the other side of the board to flick the piece of leg away. Make sure you don't flick it toward the board in case it lodges somewhere and causes a short.
At this point I have removed the legs entirely and I'm left with blocked holes.
I'm too slow with the solder sucker so gave up on that years ago. I use desoldering braid instead. Works brilliantly for this sort of thing. I clean the board with isopropyl alcohol and dip the braid in flux, get some fresh solder on the iron tip and get desoldering.

Now I will tell you what my greatest desoldering secret is...

Extra heat!

My Antex iron is 50 watts but have found that where the board has big copper traces, these can suck the heat away like a big heat sink. I use a halogen goose neck desk spot lamp with a 50 watt bulb in it. I let the board overhang the workbench where I'm going to desolder and adjust the lamp so it is under the board and perhaps half inch away from it. This has been very helpful for keeping the board warm enough to prevent heat sinking and allows the solder to flow and wick better. Try it and see the difference.
 
My trick is another set of hands when I run into problems. I have my wife hold the soldering iron while I rock the component, wield a solder sucker or needle nose pliers.

Jimbo is right on about a clean tip. Always keep it tinned. It should shine like chrome. If it's covered with a dark scale it won't heat properly. Always keep spares.

Be careful with any tool higher than 40 watts. These multi-layer boards can easily get toasted with too much heat. The better tools let you set the temp.
 
As others have said, the quality of the iron and how clean the tip is has allot to do with how good of a job you do on getting the old component out easily. As another poster said, I am not that quick with a sucker and opt to use braid instead, along with a rocking action. You'll be surprised at how much solder the braid can get out while gently rockig the component.
 
If you are going to do DC jacks, you owe it to yourself to get a hot air rework station. You can get them for under $100, so it will pay for itself in just one or two jobs. Using the 5mm nozzle helps to keep the heat focused on the pins and reduces collateral damage to nearby plastic. Set the temp to around 500C and go over the pins, constantly moving the heat around to heat up all jack pins uniformly. When you see the solder starting to liquify, gently start working the jack out of its position. It should fall out like it's soldered with butter when ready.
 
I just did one of these a couple days ago. There is a shield wrapped around the jack with four through-hole mounting points. The jack itself has 3 surface-mount mounting points. I found it easiest to just cut the top side of the shield off with my dremel which makes the shield a lot easier to remove. Once it's out, then just heat up the surface points while slowly lifting up the jack. I recommend using some braid to clean everything up afterwards.
 
I am in the process of trying to replace the dc jack in an ASUS EEE PC netbook and the solder on the contacts is not coming off. I have tried a 25w, and 40w iron and the Shack special 165w/230w soldering gun. The only way the jack would come of was with some careful cutting. I still have the 4 holes to clear out so i can install the new jack. My Dremel wants to tap in on this one to help.

Any suggestions or ideas appreciated.

Basil


Hello, here are some ideas on different guns, but before you do this understand some basic concepts on soldering. Especially on the unit your doing. That board is very sensitive to heat and it has leaf free solder which will begin to become molten at 230 c, so some can be tough to remove and sometimes you may mess up the traces or the holes that the go into. You must make sure your tip is clean at all times, now as you gain experience this becomes easy to do. 2nd is that you use solder and flux properly, on a stubborn joint using a liquid RMA flux can give you better heat transfer into the joint helping to release the olde solder. Anyone who knows how to solder can do this with any soldering gun. I know a personal friend who does this type of work with a Radio shack gun and use to work for NASA.

So with that said it is experience and technique, a good soldering gun just helps you get more done and allows you to d o numerous units or soldering takes a day, as appose the cheap unit wont last as long or heat as consistent. The components on that board all of them that is what we replace everyday down to the smallest "201 package", but we use Metcal and Hakko because we do a lot of units everyday. You will also need a solder vacuum pump whether handheld or semi-automatic(Hakko). We use both and quiet honestly a handheld pump in most cases is what we use. You want to apply enough heat to see or view the solder becoming molten, your tip size will make a difference to big will transfer to much heat and you will damage the board, obviously the flip side not enough and you will never get it off. One last thing is be patient.....Now a Hot air tool or rework gun is faster but can be more harsh when used, on a component, surrounding components or the board itself.

Cutting the pins will obviously put less stress on the PCB, then just use a pair of tweezers and pull the pins while holding the gun in the other hand and heating the joint. Be careful to not overheat or you ruin the pads or holes and they may lift.

The reason is because even if it is digital simply pulling away a half of an inch can dramatically change the temperature by 30 degrees depending on the unit. You need to have a lot of experience or you will ruin parts. If you need this done at finally convinced you cant do it let us know, if you need any more help.

Lower end solder guns: Radio Shack, Generic Hobbyist soldering stations, Weller

High End soldering Guns: Metcal, PACE, HAKKO

Hope this helps out.
 
Last edited:
Sorry to pick nits but you should never use a soldering GUN on a laptop motherboard. You use a soldering iron.

Sorry... but apparently that is all you do is nit pick, the term I used is easy for others to understand. If you recognized any of the names I listed in my message none of them are soldering guns but the point was understood, yeah? I don't understand what your issue is with me you need to grow-up. Just to shed light on your behavior I have seen you picking most people apart and not helping in most situations with anything other than obvious statements. So why are you here? You have now done this in almost every topic I have posted in grow up..
 
Sorry... but apparently that is all you do is nit pick, the term I used is easy for others to understand. If you recognized any of the names I listed in my message none of them are soldering guns but the point was understood, yeah? I don't understand what your issue is with me you need to grow-up. Just to shed light on your behavior I have seen you picking most people apart and not helping in most situations with anything other than obvious statements. So why are you here? You have now done this in almost every topic I have posted in grow up..

Just pointing out that as a experienced tech you should never tell someone to use a soldering GUN. I can't even imagine why you would use that word since you use soldering irons every day of the week. Don't take it personal.

I'm still trying to figure out why you told everyone that a GPU does the work of a southbridge.

ps - Radio Shack and Weller DO make soldering guns. So you're wrong about that too.
 
Last edited:
Solder sucker:

I was going to mention the solder sucker but someone else did, hehe. I was lost until I started using a solder sucker. I grabbe one from ebay. WOrks slick, best tool I ever purchased. Or one of the best I mean. I am still searching a good tool to use for testing memory out of the computer. :)
 
I agree gun and iron are two totally different things.
I also agree that Weller shouldn't be in the same category as radio shack. Weller does make some cheaper stuff but the non super cheap stuff is pretty good.

Don't take it personally I just like to have correct info and provide correct info.
 
If you are going to do DC jacks, you owe it to yourself to get a hot air rework station. You can get them for under $100, so it will pay for itself in just one or two jobs. Using the 5mm nozzle helps to keep the heat focused on the pins and reduces collateral damage to nearby plastic. Set the temp to around 500C and go over the pins, constantly moving the heat around to heat up all jack pins uniformly. When you see the solder starting to liquify, gently start working the jack out of its position. It should fall out like it's soldered with butter when ready.

I prefer using a hot air station but mine gave up the ghost shortly after I purchased it. However, I have been reluctant to purchase another one until I can afford to get something manufactured by Weller because I have found that my $30 Weller iron can do more in less time than my broken $250 solder/desoldering station, which also has a hot air station built into it.
 
Back
Top