flash drive recovery

Larry Sabo said:
Something else I forgot to suggest, if you can, bridge the stub to the trace remnant attached to the capacitor, and be sure to use some flux.
Click to expand...
lol. thanks. For years I soldered dc jacks without flux. I am amazed the majority held. I have learned flux is a miracle when coming to soldering.
 
I ended up pulling off the last of the stub by accident. I decided to take a chance. The client was not willing to spend anymore money and was on the fence at $200. I need to let this go, either finish it or let it beat me. I soldered the wire onto the trace giving me .001 resistance and plugged it into windows(yes I should have imaged it first). It said unrecognizable usb device, ugh. Then I plugged it into a linux box and ran the dmesg command and it detected the drive properly. I am making a ddrescue image now. Of the 2gb, it is half done. I have seen many images that are empty on flash drives. I will not feel good till I actually see the data. I should know in about 15 minutes.
 
Larry Sabo said:
@pcpete, I looked but my one Sandisks is a USB 3.0, so has a different PCB, and the other is a monolithic -- different again. I would continue looking for a via with 0.000 ohms between the stub and the via.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, if you plan to do more of these, some AWG 38 /0.1mm wire would come in handy for these, although I usually use AWG 30 wire-wrap wire for the few I have done.
Click to expand...
nice suggestion. we usually do one or two a year. I have a client who brought one in today which was bent. I have not looked inside the plastic yet
 
@lcoughey how much would you or other DR specialists charge for a simple job like this? I told my client it would be more than $200, but am not really sure what the going rate is for a job like this.
 
pcpete said:
I ended up pulling off the last of the stub by accident. I decided to take a chance. The client was not willing to spend anymore money and was on the fence at $200. I need to let this go, either finish it or let it beat me. I soldered the wire onto the trace giving me .001 resistance and plugged it into windows(yes I should have imaged it first). It said unrecognizable usb device, ugh. Then I plugged it into a linux box and ran the dmesg command and it detected the drive properly. I am making a ddrescue image now. Of the 2gb, it is half done. I have seen many images that are empty on flash drives. I will not feel good till I actually see the data. I should know in about 15 minutes.
Click to expand...

Congrats!!!
 
Larry Sabo said:
EDIT: I forgot to mention, if you plan to do more of these, some AWG 38 /0.1mm wire would come in handy for these, although I usually use AWG 30 wire-wrap wire for the few I have done.
Click to expand...

just curious, can you tell what gauge wire I used in that picture? Is the 38 gauge you mentioned quite a bit finer? Any idea what amperage that can handle?
 
pcpete said:
just curious, can you tell what gauge wire I used in that picture? Is the 38 gauge you mentioned quite a bit finer?
Click to expand...
As a rough guess, I'd say it's 28 gauge. That's based on the width of the notches vs the width of the wire, as shown below. The notches are roughly 3.8 wire-diameters wide and the notches on my similar USB flash drive are 1.12mm wide. 1.12 / 3.8 = 0.29mm. According to Mark's tale, 28 gauge seems reasonable and 30 gauge too small. 38 gauge would be about a third of the width of the wire you used.
Wire gauge.jpg
 
@larr
Larry Sabo said:
As a rough guess, I'd say it's 28 gauge. That's based on the width of the notches vs the width of the wire, as shown below. The notches are roughly 3.8 wire-diameters wide and the notches on my similar USB flash drive are 1.12mm wide. 1.12 / 3.8 = 0.29mm. According to Mark's tale, 28 gauge seems reasonable and 30 gauge too small. 38 gauge would be about a third of the width of the wire you used.
Click to expand...

are you saying 30 and 38 gauge are to thin to use to carry the amperage on those flash drives?
 
I have no idea what current flash drives draw, to be honest. Normally, I'd use 30 gauge wire for this job. The 38 gauge wire is a not easy to handle and I'd only use it for signal lines. I think it (38 Ga.) would work, though, if it came down to it.
 
Must be the insulation. Would heating it up to solder it be anything to be concerned about?
 
Yeah, the insulation. I'm not sure how much trouble that enamel insulation would be to remove for tinning or how not removing it would affect tinning. Knar wire comes highly recommended a guy on hddgur forum (Haque) who does a lot of flash drives. Its main benefit is that the insulation does not shrink when heated during soldering.
 
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