I disagree with doing things yourself if you don't really have an idea on how to get where you want to go. I enjoy fumbling around and doing things I've never done before, but I usually have an idea what I want and the rough steps I need to get there.
I'd suggest either using some prebuilt template on some framework (Joomla, wordpress, etc.) that's already out there. I'd recommend using something ubiquitous as it'll have a lot of support, and a lot of options to choose from. As well as addons and extensions for tweaking the site properly. You can even just find a template that has the layout you want, and modify the pictures to make it how you want.
As for tools, Notepad++ and Photoshop (GIMP, Paint.Net, but there's no real replacement for photoshop) are all you really need.
True dreamweaver will insert code for you, and some rough debugging and templating but none of that is really useful because it takes too long to learn how to use the application, than it does to know how the individual tags work, and which ones you want to use.