UTP cable brands

[Pants]

Does the brand of UTP cable make any difference in the quality?

 

[SilverLeaf]

Personally, I stay away from the cheap stuff. I've always been a fan of Belden cable, especially the 1585A (plenum) and the 1583A (non-plenum).

 

[Markverhyden]

I buy my cable locally now a days. The first time I bought a box it was from some Internet source. Forgot who. I regretted that purchase for many months. The coloring was so bad it was really hard to distinguish B from B/W, etc. Fortunately it was not CCA.

Now a days I buy my wiring supplies locally from Graybar or Grainger's. That way I can check the coloring. Other places if they have the brands I like.

I second Belden. I first ran into them back when I worked on drilling rigs with Schlumberger. They supplied all of the sensor cable we used. Never had a problem.

 

[frederick]

Brands vary on quality when it comes to cabling. As has been mentioned, coloring can be one of them. Also, the quality of PVC outer jacketing, copper, etc..etc...

It's really going to be a trial and error for you. I've ran into some brands that I say NEVER AGAIN!!!!

UTP Patch cable: SHAXON
We also get our Patch Panels, keystones, etc., from them.
UTP Bulk cable: Monoprice
We buy our Plenum and STP from Monoprice as well.

 

[Pants]

Well I'm gonna get me a spool to make patch cables with. Cat 6 (not the 6a) should be good for making patch cables under 50 meters right, and still get 10Gigabit speeds? Not that I'll service a 10Gb network anytime soon...I'd think only bigger companies run 10Gigabit wire in their walls, but who knows.

 

[Mercenary Roadie]

Well I'm gonna get me a spool to make patch cables with. Cat 6 (not the 6a) should be good for making patch cables under 50 meters right, and still get 10Gigabit speeds? Not that I'll service a 10Gb network anytime soon...I'd think only bigger companies run 10Gigabit wire in their walls, but who knows.

No, that's a bad idea. Standard bulk cable is solid and patch cables are made of stranded. If you follow any of the BICSI standards and practices, homemade patch cables are a no-no.

The brand of the cable can make a big difference, but once you get into the major brands like Bert-Tek, ICC, Beldin, etc. They start becoming the same and only the warranty starts to matter

 

[Markverhyden]

There is no way you will be able to make patch cable cheaper than purchasing them pre-made. The 1000' spools are solid core. The patch cords are braided for a reason, flexibility.

 

[YeOldeStonecat]

Like everything else, "you get what you pay for".....
There are better brands, better quality, and there are the budget brands that are crap.

Not worth your time to try to make your own when you can purchase factory made ones for so little cost. Of course doing this kind of job you need to know how to make cables, and you should get yourself a decent crimper kit. But keep those "hand mode jobs" to when you have to, otherwise...do everything you can to use factory made. You'll spend a lot less time troubleshooting networks if you use factory made.

Get most of ours from Monoprice or Bluejeans.

 

[frederick]

I have used bulk spools of cable to make temporary patch cables. Say I'm on a job, I got solid copper in bulk, but no patch, or the patch isn't long enough to reach. What's quicker to get this client up and running again? Drive 20 miles back to the shop to grab 1 patch cable, or go ahead and cut off a piece and crimp it? Chances are, I'm gonna go ahead and make a quick piece for now, tag it, make a note on it, and when I'm back over at the clients, switch it out with a proper one. That is the only time I do this. I normally keep my temporary patch cables as well, varying lengths, just in case I need to do this again and I just so happen to need an 11ft. long patch cable, and all I have are 5', 8', and 10' on hand.

I've also had to use solid copper to make crossovers, because I didn't have the correct length or just didn't have any on hand. But again, I tag it, make a note of it, and then return later with the correct one.

This is the only time that I see it as acceptable to run solid copper as patch cables. Been on too many jobs were the customer hired an electrician to run their power and their network lines. The electrician was ever so nice enough to plug the computers in as well, using his made on the spot patch. But, customers moved the computers, or something like that, and the wires either broke or were no longer making a good enough connection at the termination points. I don't blame the electrician in this case, cause I've noticed they don't know any better (they deal with distributing power, not connecting networks). But if you are a technician, do it right.

Edit: As far as tools. I think I use my Punchdown a lot more than my crimper. I've been replacing a lot of the old 66-blocks, or the keystone in the wall plate got busted when they were moving furniture. Installing patch panels, etc, etc. Fluke makes a great punchdown kit. Make sure you use a punchdown blade that does cut. Typically, blades have two sides, one for just punching the wire down, and another for punching it down and cutting off the excess end. I got after one of my techs for just using the punchdown side. Don't waste (my) time punching it down and then using wire cutters to trim the excess. Work smart, not just hard.

 

[pceinc]

There is no way you will be able to make patch cable cheaper than purchasing them pre-made. The 1000' spools are solid core. The patch cords are braided for a reason, flexibility.

You can buy stranded in bulk as well.

I use Coleman. Used to use Berk-Tek but my supplier stopped selling it. I prefer a tight jacket on my cable. Generally the cheap stuff is loose. You also have top watch out for copper clad with aluminum core.

 

[frederick]

You can buy stranded in bulk as well.

I use Coleman. Used to use Berk-Tek but my supplier stopped selling it. I prefer a tight jacket on my cable. Generally the cheap stuff is loose. You also have top watch out for copper clad with aluminum core.

You can, and this is a possible route if you are dead set on making your own patch. Becausetime equals money, I'd rather buy pre made patch, and buy bulk solid copper. We don't make very many temp patch cables, its rare that we do. Buying premade also lowers the chance of having a bad termination. When do runs, we terminate at a punchdown when possible, rather than crimping.

Not saying you wrong though pceinc. Just showing how we do it.

 

[Markverhyden]

You can buy stranded in bulk as well.

I use Coleman. Used to use Berk-Tek but my supplier stopped selling it. I prefer a tight jacket on my cable. Generally the cheap stuff is loose. You also have top watch out for copper clad with aluminum core.

Yes, I know you can get bulk braided. But my point is you can't make a profit due to labor costs in an environment like ours. I can get 7' patch cords locally for something like $2/ea.

That being said I have been on some sites that were large businesses. They were doing a move and their corporate support people were making all of the patch cords for use in the rack.

Like frederick mentioned I have no problem whipping up a patch cord or two made of solid core but that is rare. I have a bin full of patch cords of all lengths. The ones I usually make are 12-24" for use in racks.

Coleman and Berk-Tek are good as well. I've done work for some companies that shipped me the cable and it was always Berk-Tek.

 

[Martyn]

Over the years I've made quite a few cables and in fact went on a structured cabling course a couple of years ago. I've seen quite a few badly made cables that have caused data transfer problems so I just keep quite a few premade cables of different lengths in stock.

 

[YeOldeStonecat]

Just a warning about purchasing spools of stranded....you really should get special terminations designed for stranded. most ends you get (to crimp on) are designed for solid. They will do a crummy job if you crimp them onto stranded.

Need to get ends designed for stranded...and keep them separated from your ends that are designed for solid.

I've only once seen ends designed to work universally on both...think Siemens made them.

 

[pceinc]

Wasn't necessarily arguing the cost effectiveness of making patch cables. We make them if they are 15-20' otherwise I'll terminate with a a jack and short patch depending on the environment.

For the OP, I have been buying my patch cables from Monoprice. Good quality and price. I wish they sold better jacks. I always use Leviton because I like the simplicity of holding them while terminating. Milestek is a good source for cable supplies and racks too although you will want to setup a dealer account to get discounted pricing. I used to pickup Leviton jacks in Home Depot when I was in a pinch but they have since swapped for some garbage brand.

 

[Pants]

I feel I wouldn't be much of a network tech if I didn't keep my practice up making cables, so I think I'll get myself a spool of stranded. I don't have any need for solid core, unless I'm missing something...ie I don't plan on doing structured cabling.

 

[Markverhyden]

I have solid cable for making runs, ie above the ceiling, through walls, etc. I may go weeks without making a run. But if I have a project or need I have the proper cable to do the job, both riser and plenum. Braided must never be used in that situation except as a last resort.

I can't speak for those here that do SMB, but in my book if you don't do or have a contact who will do run's you are severely limiting yourself. I'm not talking about wiring a new building. I'm talking about the "Oh I forgot to mention when I called you, we need to move John to that corner over there. I don't think there is an Internet plug there" type of thing. Or, what has also happened several times. A network problem at one spot and re-term both ends does not work so they need a new run. If a business calls me I'm loaded for bear or mouse.

 

[Mercenary Roadie]

You can buy stranded in bulk as well.

I use Coleman. Used to use Berk-Tek but my supplier stopped selling it. I prefer a tight jacket on my cable. Generally the cheap stuff is loose. You also have top watch out for copper clad with aluminum core.

Actually, the jacket should be a little loose on the pairs, that's why tie-wraps are a no-no as they crush the cable and you loose the spacing between pairs.

 

[frederick]

Wasn't necessarily arguing the cost effectiveness of making patch cables. We make them if they are 15-20' otherwise I'll terminate with a a jack and short patch depending on the environment.

For the OP, I have been buying my patch cables from Monoprice. Good quality and price. I wish they sold better jacks. I always use Leviton because I like the simplicity of holding them while terminating. Milestek is a good source for cable supplies and racks too although you will want to setup a dealer account to get discounted pricing. I used to pickup Leviton jacks in Home Depot when I was in a pinch but they have since swapped for some garbage brand.

I know you weren't. You're good bro.

Monoprice has junk for jacks, I hear that. Shaxon has so far proven to be great quality for us. I've seen/heard complaints, but honestly, I don't see where they are coming from. I've only been using Shaxon for about 2 years now, so maybe before then they were crap. Leviton are awesome as well. Agreed that Home Depot/Lowes have nothing but garbage as well these days.

Pants, I'd keep a stock of solid copper in bulk, and patch cables in bags over keeping both bulk in stock. Unless you really find yourself needing long runs of patch. I've never seen or needed a 15'+ of patch. And when I do, I find a way to shorten that run. 15' is a long way for something to be ran exposed like that.

As for using cable ties, I use them, no problem. But the key is to not make them up tight. I just use them to keep groups of runs together and from inter-mixing with other runs. If I can, as in I have it in stock beforehand, I'll use different colors to signify different groups/nets of runs. I.e. Blue for Offices on the South Side, and Yellow for Offices on the North, and Green for Accounting offices.