Upgrading CPU

[sorcerer]

Given that I've officially retired I don't suppose I should be here anymore but I know you good folks won't let me down

15 year old kid across the road wants to upgrade his CPU. I don't know the exact spec of the machine he has now (possibly an Intel i5 or something and going up to an i7 or i9) but he's an intelligent lad who reckons he's done his due dilligence and knows that the new processor uses the same socket, will fit and so on. He's just not very good with his hands so wants me to do the work.

Stupid as it may seem, I've never done this before. I've replaced a few processors like-for-like because they'd gone faulty but I've never replaced for the purpose of upgrading. Will it just be old one out, new one in and job done, or will Windows 10 throw a wobbly and need a fresh install?

 

[Metanis]

Will it just be old one out, new one in and job done, or will Windows 10 throw a wobbly and need a fresh install?

Before touching the rig I'd use the motherboard's CPU compatibility list to confirm it will accept the new CPU. You may need to flash the BIOS before actually installing the newer CPU.

If the new CPU is truly compatible with the motherboard then you will not have any worries about Windows 10 at all. It will just boot and quietly install any new drivers it needs from the Internet.

 

[sorcerer]

Before touching the rig I'd use the motherboard's CPU compatibility list to confirm it will accept the new CPU. You may need to flash the BIOS before actually installing the newer CPU.

If the new CPU is truly compatible with the motherboard then you will not have any worries about Windows 10 at all. It will just boot and quietly install any new drivers it needs from the Internet.

Brilliant, thanks very much my friend.

 

[NETWizz]

Everything here is correct. Many older motherboards will NOT have tested every possible CPU because the manufacturer simply does not likely have 85 different Intel CPUs from every generation, but you can be quite certain what is going to work based on its chipset. Be extremely careful because CPUs are often NOT returnable!

For example, an ASUS or MSI Z590 chipset motherboard will generally both support the same CPUs. In contrast a Z490 (10th generation) chipset might have the same socket LGA 1200 but may not work with every 11th generation CPU.

Sometimes Intel keeps the same socket generation to generation, BUT does NOT always keep compatibility in that it is NOT simply a matter of the CPU fitting the socket.

***

Now, when you pull off the CPU cooler, you will want to clean the heat spreader (top) of the CPU and the cooler as well with something lint-free and a zero-residue cleaner of some sort such as high-purity alcohol (or similar). DO NOT let solvent run around the edges of the CPU or into the socket though! You want only about a drop of solvent on the CPU or a few drops on the corner of a lint-free towel.

With the LGA sockets (pins are on the motherboard), it is critical to look at the notches and triangle and line it up identical to the old CPU. DO NOT touch the bottom of the CPU and an even more stern a warning NEVER touch the pins on the motherboard. I know it sounds crazy, but like 9 out of 10 dead motherboards are because someone touched the pins. People do it all the time!

You will want to hold the CPU on the edges and gently set it on top of the socket (in the proper orientation the first time). You can gently ensure it is seated by wiggling it side-to-side (extremely gently), but DO NOT PUSH DOWN at all. Once you are sure it is perfectly aligned, close the cover, install thermal paste, and put the cooler on.

Here is how I install Thermal Paste and how much I use (taken from Arctic Silver). You can do it your way, but you want good coverage, no air bubbles, and no oozing off the heat spreader. I don't spread it flat because it traps air every time. A spiral is a horrible idea for the same reason. You want something centered that when you put the cooler on it presses inside out displacing air.

This method has always worked extremely well for me.



I doubt the brand of thermal paste matters. I have used Shin Estu Micro Si (included by Dell), Arctic Silver 5, Antec Formula 5 (a copycat), Ceramique 1, Arctic Alumina, Radio Shack White stuff, and the Intel included Dow Corning.

 

[sorcerer]

Everything here is correct. Many older motherboards will NOT have tested every possible CPU because the manufacturer simply does not likely have 85 different Intel CPUs from every generation, but you can be quite certain what is going to work based on its chipset. Be extremely careful because CPUs are often NOT returnable!

For example, an ASUS or MSI Z590 chipset motherboard will generally both support the same CPUs. In contrast a Z490 (10th generation) chipset might have the same socket LGA 1200 but may not work with every 11th generation CPU.

Sometimes Intel keeps the same socket generation to generation, BUT does NOT always keep compatibility in that it is NOT simply a matter of the CPU fitting the socket.

***

Now, when you pull off the CPU cooler, you will want to clean the heat spreader (top) of the CPU and the cooler as well with something lint-free and a zero-residue cleaner of some sort such as high-purity alcohol (or similar). DO NOT let solvent run around the edges of the CPU or into the socket though! You want only about a drop of solvent on the CPU or a few drops on the corner of a lint-free towel.

With the LGA sockets (pins are on the motherboard), it is critical to look at the notches and triangle and line it up identical to the old CPU. DO NOT touch the bottom of the CPU and an even more stern a warning NEVER touch the pins on the motherboard. I know it sounds crazy, but like 9 out of 10 dead motherboards are because someone touched the pins. People do it all the time!

You will want to hold the CPU on the edges and gently set it on top of the socket (in the proper orientation the first time). You can gently ensure it is seated by wiggling it side-to-side (extremely gently), but DO NOT PUSH DOWN at all. Once you are sure it is perfectly aligned, close the cover, install thermal paste, and put the cooler on.

Here is how I install Thermal Paste and how much I use (taken from Arctic Silver). You can do it your way, but you want good coverage, no air bubbles, and no oozing off the heat spreader. I don't spread it flat because it traps air every time. A spiral is a horrible idea for the same reason. You want something centered that when you put the cooler on it presses inside out displacing air.

This method has always worked extremely well for me.

View attachment 13297

I doubt the brand of thermal paste matters. I have used Shin Estu Micro Si (included by Dell), Arctic Silver 5, Antec Formula 5 (a copycat), Ceramique 1, Arctic Alumina, Radio Shack White stuff, and the Intel included Dow Corning.

That's great, thanks very much NETWizz, much appreciated.

 

[fincoder]

Many older motherboards will NOT have tested every possible CPU because the manufacturer simply does not likely have 85 different Intel CPUs from every generation, but you can be quite certain what is going to work based on its chipset. Be extremely careful because CPUs are often NOT returnable!

I would never spend money on a CPU that is NOT listed as compatible by the manufacturer. These lists are generally very exhaustive and they might not need to test each CPU physically. If a CPU is missing from the list there may be a reason (e.g. BIOS firmware bug not yet fixed). If I already had the CPU that should theoretically work with the motherboard's chipset, then I would try it and if it seems to work it would most likely be fine.

 

[NETWizz]

Honestly motherboards are cheap too. Often they are under $200. I would probably NOT buy a CPU without a motherboard most of the time