trouble with anti lock brakes

[Pants]

I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry v6. It's got anti lock brakes and they just suck.


I don't know if this is how they are suppose to work normally, but when I brake over bumpy surfaces or any type of abnormal surface the car doesn't stop, the abs kicks on. It's very annoying and scary.

We had a green light at an intersection a few months back and as we approached the intersection I saw a car running a red light going pretty fast and almost plowed into the side of us, with our kids in the car. I hit the brakes as I entered the intersection and the car wouldn't stop, it just rolled making that annoying rippling sound. The car running the red light managed to get through the intersection in front of us before he hit us, right in front of us, but had I been going a little faster the car would have hit us on the side and might have killed my 1 1/2 year old.

We took our car in to have the brakes checked and they said. "Every thing is fine...Our tech took the car for a test run and everything checks out" Go figure. The brakes needed work any way, but the problem with ABS remains.

I've heard that the anti lock brake system can be "by passed" and I can go back to using traditional type brakes. Based on my experience with ABS to date, it doesn't sound like a bad idea. My mom told me that an auto repair shop was able to by pass the ABS in her truck, so I'm going to look into doing the same?

Has anyone else had trouble with ABS?

 

[NYJimbo]

I know this is a general message section but a problem like this is best brought up on a forum where LOTS of people have gone through your problem. I would locate a Toyota Camry forum. I am sure you will get real solid answers from people who have gone through this before.

 

[phaZed]

Agree with Jimbo

You can pull the Abs pump fuse and that will disable Abs but will definitely give you a dash warning light and depending on your cars ECU it may disable other safety features such as air bags.

Don't overlook your tires. If you don't have good tires or if you have long life rated tires, grip performance will be reduced causing your wheels to lock under less braking pressure than nicer ones. This can seemingly cause Abs to activate prematurely - although it may not be.

Edit: Also, if you have never changed your shocks/struts, that can cause big issues with bumps that you reported... the wheels will bounce rather than stay firmly planted, especially over bumps.

 

[Vicenarian]

+1 to getting the shocks/struts checked out

 

[nlinecomputers]

The problem is not your brakes. You have bad tires and bad shocks.

 

[Pants]

That could be,but I went ahead and pulled the ABS fuse anyway because it's scary the way it is now.

We bought this car almost 8 months ago with about 192,000 miles on it. Now it's go close to 200,000 on it. I'm not sure it's worth replacing the shocks.

 

[ohio_grad_06]

If you are talking safety though may want to consider that. How long do you intend to keep thr car? I've got a ford taurus with 160, 000 miles, needs a little work but good car overall, and the car is comfortable to me. Mechanic said if I get transmission fluid flushed and filters changed, car may go 300, 000. For me it seems worth fixing my car as I hate having car payments.

 

[codegreen]

I don't know much about cars, but it sounds like you're doing something my clients do a lot: diagnosing a problem based on assumptions, not knowledge and experience. Many of my clients will call me asking me to "remove a virus" or "delete songs and games because their computer is slow". I have to carefully question these customers to get a description about the symptoms, rather than their theories of the cause.

Based on the fact that you're asking a forum of computer techs for car advice, I assume that you, like me, know very little about cars. You are assuming you have a problem with the anti-lock brakes because you feel the anti-locking system engage every time you have trouble stopping. Now you've pulled the fuse so you don't feel the anti-lock system anymore. This sounds like someone pulling the cooling fan out of their computer because it was making a horrible noise: it doesn't solve the problem, and may make things much worse.

You're not having a problem with your anti-lock brakes -- you're having a problem stopping your car. Take it to a good mechanic and describe the symptoms. Don't say, "Check the brakes." Explain in detail what happens when you try to stop in problematic situations, and try to leave out your assumptions of the cause.

 

[Gary Rockliff]

Your car is infected with Malware!

Seriously, take it to a brake specialist and don't drive the car until you get it fixed. We would not like to see you or someone else hurt in a accident.

 

[Pants]

I don't know much about cars, but it sounds like you're doing something my clients do a lot: diagnosing a problem based on assumptions, not knowledge and experience. Many of my clients will call me asking me to "remove a virus" or "delete songs and games because their computer is slow". I have to carefully question these customers to get a description about the symptoms, rather than their theories of the cause.

Based on the fact that you're asking a forum of computer techs for car advice, I assume that you, like me, know very little about cars. You are assuming you have a problem with the anti-lock brakes because you feel the anti-locking system engage every time you have trouble stopping. Now you've pulled the fuse so you don't feel the anti-lock system anymore. This sounds like someone pulling the cooling fan out of their computer because it was making a horrible noise: it doesn't solve the problem, and may make things much worse.

You're not having a problem with your anti-lock brakes -- you're having a problem stopping your car. Take it to a good mechanic and describe the symptoms. Don't say, "Check the brakes." Explain in detail what happens when you try to stop in problematic situations, and try to leave out your assumptions of the cause.

You yourself are making MANY assumptions.

 

[Pants]

Your car is infected with Malware!

Seriously, take it to a brake specialist and don't drive the car until you get it fixed. We would not like to see you or someone else hurt in a accident.

I'll install Malwarebytes. I think that should do the trick

 

[codegreen]

You yourself are making MANY assumptions.

Yep. I'm afraid that's the quality of the car advice you get from computer techs.

 

[nlinecomputers]

Yep. I'm afraid that's the quality of the car advice you get from computer techs.

Well you are assuming that all computer techs are automatically ignorant of auto mechanics. Some of us work on our own cars and trucks. I've replaced my shocks and changed out brake pads.

 

[brandonkick]

I'll agree that your better off seeking help in a Toyota forum where it's way more likely to get help from people who have experienced these problems. That or take it to a mechanic for a quote, many of them do not charge for it especially if your going to have the work done.

And as others have said, perhaps you can change your train of thinking.

I have a 99 monte carlo with some change short of 170,000 miles on it. I bought the car back in 2006 with 102,000 miles on it for $4,000. Since then I've had to put virtually nothing into it, maybe an alternator and a battery... a few sets of break pads, tires and some maintenance items like fluid changes, plugs and wires and so on.

I know that the engine in this car is famous for needing intake gaskets replaced every 100,000 miles or so. Even as my father is a mechanic, this is still a $500 expense for me. I also know that these are the original shocks and struts that now have closing in on 200,000 miles on them. So I'm looking at dumping $1,000 or even a little more into this car in the next year or two. But there is no way I'm getting a reliable vehicle to drive for another three to five years for $1,000.

Consider your options and you may find that car is worth the little bit of money it may need put into it. Especially because Camrys are often rated as some of the longest lasting cars on the road... you may easily get another 100,000 miles out of it.

 

[nlinecomputers]

I would also note that IMO your ABS system is working as it should. It is activating because when you hit that rough road and try to brake the car starts to skid. The ABS is keeping you from slamming into the curb. Now that you have turned it off you are much more likely to fishtail when you stop on such surfaces. ABS systems almost never incorrectly activate. It's going off because you are going into a skid and that is caused by either bald tires, or bouncy struts and shocks, or both.

You can test your shocks/struts by placing your hand over the seam in the hood or trunk above the wheel well pushing down on the car. If you let go and the car bounces you've got bad shocks. A proper shock will simply, slowly uncompress with little to no bounce.

 

[SilverLeaf]

Well you are assuming that all computer techs are automatically ignorant of auto mechanics. Some of us work on our own cars and trucks. I've replaced my shocks and changed out brake pads.

Longtime "shade tree" mechanic here. Unless it's something that requires specialized equipment and tools that I don't have access to, I have been doing most of my automotive repairs for decades. Unfortunately, "specialized equipment and tools" has become a necessity for so many repairs anymore.

Actually, I find a lot of similarity between automotive (or any mechanical system really) repair and computer maintenance and repair (Hot-rodders and overclockers aren't that different). Troubleshooting and diagnostic techniques are similar, once you've educated yourself on the basics of how the system works. One of the first things I do when I get a new (used) vehicle is to go buy a service manual for it.

 

[YeOldeStonecat]

Why would you want to disable the ABS? ABS will outperform any human being when it comes to response time and preciseness of brake control.

Based on the very limited data posted on any "testing or further troubleshooting"...your ABS appears to be functioning as designed. You mention it acts up when you go over bumps, which...if we start thinking about it, is something that is causing your tires to lose a bit of contact (if not all the contact) with the ground. Less contact = increased slippage. Logically...hitting the gas hard (if your engine had some power), or slamming on the brakes, will cause tires to lose grip, if they are partially up in the air due to irregularities in the road and a suspension that is out of whack.

The question should be..."What is causing my wheels to lose traction when I go over bumps?"
A '92, getting old..but I' wager the springs, assuming stock and no horrific mis-use, should be OK. Shocks...could have some contributing factors here if they're tired. Bushings 'n other joints....
One question...do you have after market wheels? If so, different size than stock? Non-stock sized tires? A lot of people slap on way oversized rims with ultra low profile tires..and do nothing to adjust the suspension system to be able to properly handle those.

 

[Pants]

Yep. I'm afraid that's the quality of the car advice you get from computer techs.

Obviously not

OTHER techs here were able to make some very reasonable recommendations, such as removing the ABS fuse (which happens to be very common), and logical steps on troubleshooting, both of which are consistent with what others have said on a Toyota forum which I looked at before I made any changes.

it sounds like you're doing something my clients do a lot: diagnosing a problem based on assumptions, not knowledge and experience

Based on the amount of real help you've given and the fact that you yourself are making assumptions, it makes sense logically that this comment of yours should be applied to yourself.

Originally Posted by nlinecomputers View Post

Well you are assuming that all computer techs are automatically ignorant of auto mechanics. Some of us work on our own cars and trucks. I've replaced my shocks and changed out brake pads.

Longtime "shade tree" mechanic here. Unless it's something that requires specialized equipment and tools that I don't have access to, I have been doing most of my automotive repairs for decades. Unfortunately, "specialized equipment and tools" has become a necessity for so many repairs anymore.

Actually, I find a lot of similarity between automotive (or any mechanical system really) repair and computer maintenance and repair (Hot-rodders and overclockers aren't that different). Troubleshooting and diagnostic techniques are similar, once you've educated yourself on the basics of how the system works. One of the first things I do when I get a new (used) vehicle is to go buy a service manual for it.

Exactly. Just because someone specializes on one trade doesn't mean they don't know any others. I myself have done some pretty amazing work on cars. Actually a few months ago, I used a Camry repair manual to help me replace the rear valve cover gasket. And THAT was no easy job, as it required removing the air intake manifold, and a bunch of other stuff.

 

[Pants]

Why would you want to disable the ABS? ABS will outperform any human being when it comes to response time and preciseness of brake control.

Based on the very limited data posted on any "testing or further troubleshooting"...your ABS appears to be functioning as designed. You mention it acts up when you go over bumps, which...if we start thinking about it, is something that is causing your tires to lose a bit of contact (if not all the contact) with the ground. Less contact = increased slippage. Logically...hitting the gas hard (if your engine had some power), or slamming on the brakes, will cause tires to lose grip, if they are partially up in the air due to irregularities in the road and a suspension that is out of whack.

The question should be..."What is causing my wheels to lose traction when I go over bumps?"
A '92, getting old..but I' wager the springs, assuming stock and no horrific mis-use, should be OK. Shocks...could have some contributing factors here if they're tired. Bushings 'n other joints....
One question...do you have after market wheels? If so, different size than stock? Non-stock sized tires? A lot of people slap on way oversized rims with ultra low profile tires..and do nothing to adjust the suspension system to be able to properly handle those.

I agree that the ABS in my car is working, but it's not coming on when it's suppose to, and until I found out what causing it, the most I can afford to do at this point is remove the ABS fuse, which many other's have also safely done.

 

[Knightsman]

Disabling your ABS is not going to make it worse, people drove without it for years. You will need to be more careful in the rain, and one of your tires may lock up when you stop hard.

However it wont make anything worse, and your abs light should come on if your sensors are working correctly.

I've had vehicles that I have needed to disable it because the abs sensor on the wheels were going bad.

200k means its time for new shocks, they are cheap, and fairly easy to install if you feel you could, but I don't know your car, and there are dangers with the spring. This is more than likely as others of stated, your cause.

I also have experienced what you have experienced, but only in Toyotas and Chevrolets (a 96 blazer, 2004 trailblazer and a 2000 1500). Its a scary feeling when it does it, feels like the breaks just release, but keep your foot on it, they are not releasing.