Why are automotive fuel gauges [still] so non-linear?

HCHTech

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Ok, I'm old. I could forgive the 1960's cars I had when I first started driving for having wildly inaccurate fuel gauges. They used mechanical floats that could have different readings depending on the level of the road/driveway/etc., were subject to corrosion and breakage, the floats could leak or become saturated with gas, the list of potential problems was fairly long.

I had a car in the 80s, it was a Pontiac Bonneville. It would drop what seemed like normal until it got to empty, but if you filled it up at that point, it only took 3/4 of a tank. You could drive forever on empty in that car.

It seems that each car had it's own idiosyncratic gauge. I had a car in the 90s, I think it was a Mazda 626 - anyway, the gauge would go down what seemed too quickly until it got to half-full. There it would stay for 100 miles or so, then it would drop very quickly to empty over the next maybe 50 miles. For that car, you had to remember how many miles it was stuck at half to know when you'd better be looking for a gas station. If it read empty, you had better be coasting up to the pump.

Thinking back on the dozen or so cars I've owned in my lifetime, I don't think accuracy has improved at all. My current car, for example, has a digital gauge, with little pips that make a kind-of progress meter. There as 12 pips that light up when the tank is full. While the range of the car varies depending on gas mileage, it's fairly typical for me to get 400 miles per tank in the summertime. It can take anywhere between 80 and 115 miles for that first pip to go dark, and the miles per pip as the tank goes to empty seems to be clearly non-linear. I can be at 300 miles for the current tank of gas and the gauge will still read half-full. The last couple of pips can go dark at maybe 20 miles per pip. In my mind, it shouldn't be unreasonable to expect an average "miles per pip" to be about equal to average miles per tank divided by number of pips, you know, linear.

Similarly, for needle-type gauges, it shouldn't be unreasonable to expect the gauge to read 1/2 full when you have driven half of the miles that tank of gas will allow.

It seems the only accurate point is when you finish filling up the tank and the gauge reads "full". Other than that, it's a crap-shoot.

Before you bring driving style into this argument, I should say that I am a fairly consistent driver. I drive a lot of miles, and gave up road rage or concern over being 5 minutes late for somewhere a long time ago. My car displays the instant gas mileage as well as the running gas mileage for the current tank - those figures are commonly very level over the course of a tank of gas.

My only conclusion is that it must be an incredibly difficult task to make an accurate fuel gauge (probably only slightly more complicated than it must be to make an accurate progress bar for program installations) if in 40 years of automotive development the damned gauge still can't accurately tell you how the $%#& much gas you have left in the tank. Just sayin'
 
This BMW 528 I have has the best fuel gauge I've ever owned! It's still not linear but it's pretty close. Between 1/4 and 1/8, fuel drop seems to accelerate but then is very accurate (Down to the mile or two) that it's going to run out. Accuracy over a full tank is fairly linear till I hit 1/4.

A lot of my previous cars had a "Fake Empty" - "Fuel Reserve", where it would be on E but still have 30-50 miles or so.. not so with Das Beamer... my first car that is actually empty on E.
 
I actually wondered this myself when I got my SUV last summer. I found a really good explanation here

https://www.reddit.com/r/explainlik...ve_accurate_gasoline/?st=iq3zvq28&sh=c2730065


If you are too lazy/paranoid to click links see below. Credit to bachiavelli from Reddit

The gauges are accurate in determining the level of the fuel in the tank, but not the actual volume. This is caused by a few different things.

First, gas tanks are not always perfect symmetrical shapes. While in general they are rectangular, there are some irregularities. Most gas gauges work using a floating sending unit. The float rests on the top of the fuel, and sends a signal to the gauge indicating the level. The more fuel there is, the higher the float is. That being said, for example, if the fuel tank was shaped like an upside down triangle, the upper portion of the tank would hold significantly more fuel than the bottom, causing the float to sink slower at the top as fuel is consumed, and faster at the bottom, even though fuel is being consumed at a consistent rate. This creates the illusion that you get better mileage at different fuel levels.

Obviously fuel tanks are not shaped like inverted triangles though. This brings up the second point.

Fuel tanks are rated to hold specific volumes of fuel, but the rated volume doesn't necessarily indicate the actual capacity. For instance, a tank rated to hold 10 gallons of fuel may actually hold upwards of 13 or 14 gallons. So when you fill up a 10 gallon tank, you are in all probability filling it over it's rated capacity. This brings us back to the level indicator.

When the fuel gauge is calibrated, it is set up to read 100% at the rated capacity, 10 gallons in our example. But when you put an extra gallon or two in, the float either sits higher, or the fuel level is actually higher than the float. So what happens is for the first several miles you drive your car after filling up you have the illusion that you are getting superior fuel mileage, while in fact you haven't consumed enough fuel for the float to actually send an accurate reading to the level indicator.

A third, albeit minor, factor is when your tank is actually empty. In most models of cars when the needle hits the dreaded E, you actually have roughly a gallon left in the tank. Manufacturers do this on purpose because they know that people often procrastinate and wait until the last minute to fill their tanks.

So the full mark doesn't really indicate full, and the empty mark doesn't always indicate empty.

To sum it up, the gauge reads level, rather than volume, and the level gauge is not calibrated to a full tank, but rather rated capacity. A more accurate way to measure tank volume would be to use weight sensors to measure volume. I'm sure this is probably done in some vehicles.
 
I actually wondered this myself when I got my SUV last summer. I found a really good explanation here

https://www.reddit.com/r/explainlik...ve_accurate_gasoline/?st=iq3zvq28&sh=c2730065

If you are too lazy/paranoid to click links see below. Credit to bachiavelli from Reddit

I agree, that's a really good answer. It makes a lot of sense. Perfect explanation for 1974.

But it's completely unsatisfactory in 2016. With today's electronics, a sensor of some kind (rather than a float) from the bottom to the top of the tank could provide very accurate data from filled to overflowing to dead bone empty. But it would cost more. And the first car manufacturer to do something like that would get sued by all the knuckleheads that think you should be able to run the needle 3 inches below the E find themselves running out of gas in some dangerous neighborhood!

kramer.jpg
 
"The gauges are accurate in determining the level of the fuel in the tank, but not the actual volume."

My comment to that is "Well, that's wrong. Stop doing that. "

I read the whole article, and my take away is: "blah, blah, blah, we're not giving you accurate data (we COULD, but we're choosing not to - for reasons that benefit US, not YOU), deal with it."

Frankly, I don't need manufacturers coddling me, or lying to me, just so I won't ask questions. Give me the data, and let me choose my actions based on that. I'm not an idiot.

Maybe they could put in a toggle switch somewhere. Position A = default = do what they are doing now. Position B = reporting the actual, non-massaged data to the user. You provide some proof that you are an engineer, anal-retentive detail-guy, or old curmudgeon, and they would flip that switch.

Hmmm. Guess this is a sore spot with me! :)
 
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The problem, I believe, is that they still rely on some sort of float, or at least they used to several years ago when I researched the issue a little. I've developed and patented a number of automotive electronics devices in my time and this was one of those projects I never got around to finishing. I actually had an idea how to make an accurate and much more sophisticated fuel sender but I can't tell you how it works because I still haven't got around to prototyping or patenting it yet ;)

The problem with float-based fuel senders is that, no matter how sophisticated the electronics at the receiving end, you've got liquid sloshing around that somehow needs to be quantified. While some systems are more sophisticated than others and may use digital electronics to intelligently interpret the readings from the sender unit, they all still rely on some sort of signal 'damping', effectively creating an average reading. The problem gets worse when the tank gets emptier since there's more sloshing. This is the reason (I think) that the gauge is non-linear, to reduce excessive fluctuations at lower levels.
 
The problem with float-based fuel senders

I think that's it exactly. The problem with [more-accurate] NON-float-based fuel senders is undoubtedly that they cost more and would never be deemed worth the extra expense considering the apparent problems that would come with reporting more-accurate fuel levels... I guess.. who knows. I still like the switch idea.
 
I have a Chevy Venture mini-van that the only time I can trust the gauge is after I fill er up. I always reset the mileage counter to zero and then refill before I hit 400 miles. The gauge will go down for the first half of the tank then it goes back up. It's not worth the money to fix the thing, I'll just live with it.

My beef though is with motorcycle speedometer inaccuracy. It is a % off which usually about 8% or so on my bike. I spend my time watching that thing and calculating my true speed, remembering that if I'm showing 82 I know I'm doing 75 and if it's 100 I doing 90...... Ok I do go slower too, at 60 I'm really doing 55. I've had to add a GPS to this bike and I'm in the process of adding a "speedohealer" to permanently fix this speedometer.
The government has passed requirements for motorcycle manufactures except when it comes to requiring them to accurately calculate speed. I suspect that maybe they require the manufacturers to overstate the speed of the cycle? Saw an article last week about the Kawasaki H2R hitting 400kph in 26 seconds... they didn't say how they calculated that speed, it could have been only 370kph
 
I have a Chevy Venture mini-van that the only time I can trust the gauge is after I fill er up. I always reset the mileage counter to zero and then refill before I hit 400 miles. The gauge will go down for the first half of the tank then it goes back up. It's not worth the money to fix the thing, I'll just live with it.

My beef though is with motorcycle speedometer inaccuracy. It is a % off which usually about 8% or so on my bike. I spend my time watching that thing and calculating my true speed, remembering that if I'm showing 82 I know I'm doing 75 and if it's 100 I doing 90...... Ok I do go slower too, at 60 I'm really doing 55. I've had to add a GPS to this bike and I'm in the process of adding a "speedohealer" to permanently fix this speedometer.
The government has passed requirements for motorcycle manufactures except when it comes to requiring them to accurately calculate speed. I suspect that maybe they require the manufacturers to overstate the speed of the cycle? Saw an article last week about the Kawasaki H2R hitting 400kph in 26 seconds... they didn't say how they calculated that speed, it could have been only 370kph

So what does the motorcycle dealership say about all of this? Is there a (recall) fix for it?
 
I've never asked as I haven't bought a new bike since 1965. They aren't required to provide an accurate speedometer and the government could care less since it reads faster rather than slower than you actually are going. If it was the other way around I suspect there would be a regulation that they be accurate
 
Yeah, X3 that the float type electric fuel pumps are still popular because they are cheap to manufacture.

I replaced the fuel pump in my Ram pickup a while back. The local Dodge dealer wanted $510. I paid about $350 for an OEM pump from a Dodge dealer on the net. Autozone stocked a much cheaper clone. I wasn't going to gamble on the clone because I had to remove the rear drive shaft to drop the tank just to install the pump. There was no way I wanted to do that miserable job twice.

Some of you shade tree types probably realized by now that the fuel filters are now part of the pump assembly along with the fuel sending unit.
 
When people fill the tank, they're actually filling more than the tank...you're going up that fill tube too (which itself can account for more than 1/2 a gallon of gas...even more on trucks or big vehicles). So for the first...quite a few miles, as your engine drinks the gas, you're only lowing the gas level in the fill pipe...and once that is depleted...NOW it will start lowing the level of the tank. But until then..that gas tank sending unit is still pegged up at the top of the tank.

The sending unit itself is inaccurate...it's just a float, and a rheostat. And it needs room above it, else it will keep hitting the "top" of the tank. So picture how it works for that top 1 inch of fuel in the tank.

Automakers caved to the demands of the people, who..(in their inability to read and listen to a gauge)..kept running out of gas. So automakers started having tanks prematurely read empty.
 
I have a Chevy Venture mini-van that the only time I can trust the gauge is after I fill er up. I always reset the mileage counter to zero and then refill before I hit 400 miles. The gauge will go down for the first half of the tank then it goes back up. It's not worth the money to fix the thing, I'll just live with it.

My beef though is with motorcycle speedometer inaccuracy. It is a % off which usually about 8% or so on my bike. I spend my time watching that thing and calculating my true speed, remembering that if I'm showing 82 I know I'm doing 75 and if it's 100 I doing 90...... Ok I do go slower too, at 60 I'm really doing 55. I've had to add a GPS to this bike and I'm in the process of adding a "speedohealer" to permanently fix this speedometer.
The government has passed requirements for motorcycle manufactures except when it comes to requiring them to accurately calculate speed. I suspect that maybe they require the manufacturers to overstate the speed of the cycle? Saw an article last week about the Kawasaki H2R hitting 400kph in 26 seconds... they didn't say how they calculated that speed, it could have been only 370kph
I had a speedohealer on one of my R6's. The gearing on it was -1/+2 on it so the percentage off was in the low double digits off. Who knows how many actual miles it had since when I got the bike it was geared that way, with no correction. No idea how long it had been that way, but yeah it was way off. It was nice after the speedohealer, but even then you need to correct it since the percentages are rough guesses.
 
Shouldn't be rocket science in today's world with how computerized our vehicles are.

Open Fuel Filler = re-set
Put in fuel = flow in (flowmeter) calculated
Use gas = flow out (flowmeter) calculated
1st minus 2nd = amount left. calculated

12 gals flowed in and 10 flowed out leaving 2 left????????

Surely I'm missing something?
 
Incidentally I just took apart my Mercedes C240 fuel pump this weekend trying to figure out why no fuel is going to the engine (turned out to be a relay in the end), but guess what! It's still just a stupid plastic float on an aluminum stick. I'd guess there's just no incentive to make a more accurate fuel gauge. You really think it'd be a selling point to a consumer? I think the color of paint will have a greater impact there.
 
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