PC cleaning, Can of Air or Vacuum

LunchBox

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Greetings,

I have been doing reading and find that I can't get a good answer to my question. I find that its about even.

When it comes to cleaning the inside of a PC which is better

Air = Why is it better or why is it bad

Vacuum = Why is it better or why is it bad

Any downsides to either? I read that using a vacuum will create static which will all know its not good. Any suggestions about vacuums and static?

Thank you
 
I use compressed air cans. However, once I got screwed up because I kept the can horizontally and some liquid got onto the motherboard... guess I've learned the lesson :p

When I clean a system I always take out everything, so it's easier to clean. Basically, I used compressed air for the parts and a wet cloth for the case. I also clean the parts outside... some cases are gross :cool:

Never tried vacuum, because I never needed to try an alternative.
 
Intresting you bring this up. I personally used compressed air, but we are literally flying through it. We go through about 6-10 cans a week (crazy right?!)....I was actually considering looking into some alternative to save some cash, but as the poster above said that static is always the concern.

I would be intrested to see if anyone has a good advice.
 
Here is my process.

I have a central vacuum system in my house which I use first.

Next I take the open case outside (supported in a cushioned wooden frame) and blow it out with a leaf blower. I put an alligator clip on fan housings to keep from spinning the fan blades. of course, the nozzle should never be closer than about 4 ft from the PC to avoid blowing the cables off or damaging something.

If the inside is coated with something sticky like air freshener, I spray 91% alcohol on it and blow it again. The contaminant will usually be carried off in the evaporating alcohol.

I bring the computer back inside my shop for inspection and blow any remaining dust with can air duster that I buy at Sam's Club.

I clean the mouse and keyboard with 91% alcohol and soft rag. Just be careful to not leave it on there long or the key lettering may come off of cheap keyboards.

I have worked on some nasty computers that canned air just would not clean.
 
i use a tank-less air compressor just made for cleaning out the dust from computers, Air cans are way to expensive
 
A nice big air compressor works nicely. Canned air is cheap if you get it at Costco. If you use a compressor you might want to blow it on your hand first to see if theres any moisture in the tank and you should empty it with the release valve when you're done to drain out any collected water.
 
A nice big air compressor works nicely. Canned air is cheap if you get it at Costco. If you use a compressor you might want to blow it on your hand first to see if theres any moisture in the tank and you should empty it with the release valve when you're done to drain out any collected water.

Water won't hurt anything if there is no electricity involved. That means don't plug it in. I've cleaned out numorious PCI cards, heat sinks, MB's (remove the battery;)), etc just running it under the sink. Water isn't a magic malicious entity. In fact PURE H2O doesn't conduct worth a damn. If you have especially hard well water or whatnot you could always use distilled water from the store for a final rinse. As long as everything is DRY when you apply power nothing bad will happen. You do need to be careful that everything is dry, but water won't hurt.

I've never seen any amount blowing with air do the wonders a quick rinse under the sink can do. Things look just like new.
 
well, I wouldnt run any electronics under water.... ever.... Why even take the risk?

If you find yourself going through alot of canned air, go to the hardware store, "home depot, lowes hardware" etc... whatever you have near you, and get an OIL-LESS air compressor, very important, and get a few in-line moisture traps. Read the manual! make sure to know how to keep the PSI not TOO HIGH, or you could damage the components.

do it right ,and you can save yourself tons in the long run, or even the short run depending how much air you use.
 
I have used a vacuum before knowing about static and have taken a chance. I never had a problem.

Now I work on my own and taking that chance is a lot different because I would be responsible for the clients equipment.

I dislike blowing because then I have do it outside, canned air is expensive after a while a vacuum (which a pointed nozzle) is the best in my opinion is the worse one because you can have that lucky day where you see that tiny spark and all is gone.

Dang, canned air, vacuum, blower, leaf blower still a tuffy though.

Maybe someone can come up with a static-less vacuum :)
 
In data centers, the vacuum nozzle and the hose are grounded. I have one hand on the case and one hand on the metal portion of the vacuum hose. I have never heard a static spark from mine. As always, the biggest risk is during the winter when the humidity is very low.
 
after reading that a leaf blower is quite a common thing to use i've made the leap and ordered a small one from ebay.

now, i'm wondering, no one has said anything about a leaf blower requiring grounding - isn't it the same as a vacuum cleaner?
 
How do you ground a plastic hose? Do you mean the hose just has like a metal ring of some sort?

Good question. In high-static situations, there is a metallic layer in the hose that is grounded. Usually the metal layer is embedded in the hose and the static is conducted through the carbon-rubber lining. This is not done to protect equipment but to prevent combustion of the dust going to the collector (usually a bag). In our data center, the crevice tool nozzle on the vacuum was actually high-carbon rubber and grounded through the hose. I believe this is overkill for PC's though. Of course, the filter was HEPA.
 
now, I'm wondering, no one has said anything about a leaf blower requiring grounding - isn't it the same as a vacuum cleaner?

Like I said before, the air nozzle should be kept back off the equipment. Otherwise, it may damage something. The static charge buildup is on the plastic hose. The air molecules will not carry enough charge to harm anything. Also be sure to secure the fans. I remember once when I hit a fan with a blast from a regular air hose (bad idea). It probably spun at 30,000 RPM before a couple of the plastic blades broke off.:eek: That was about 5-years ago and was my own PC but I learned an important lesson the hard way.

I was also glad that I had saved the chipset fans from some defective boards. They can be difficult to find and you never know when those will come in handy.
 
thanks, sys-eng. that has put my mind at rest, i.e. keep the nozzle away from the machine. it's good to know the air molecules won't carry enough charge.
 
Nick, this may be more info than you expected but it can be useful in understanding electricity. When air passes quickly through an insulated nozzle (in either direction), some electrons are rubbed off from the air molecules and collect on the nozzle. If the nozzle comes close enough or in contact to an object with a neutral or positive charge, an electric current will flow as the electrons seek a mate (proton). This is known as static discharge or shock. It is a very small amount of joules but very high voltage which can damage components such as transistors. If humidity is normal to high, say >30%, then the water molecules in the surrounding air conduct the excess electrons and static shock is more uncommon. Folks in Florida rarely experience static shock unless you want to include lightening.
 
thanks again. more info is good as although i remember bits of Physics from college it certainly isn't something i can apply to real world situations. now i understand, i won't make any mistakes (i'm pretty sure i killed some old components a while back because i wasn't careful with the vacuum nozzle - so i do respect the dangers now - good to know the limits of using a leaf blower).
 
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