coffee
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These are the connectors on the motherboard for keyboards and touchpads on laptops. The syles differ greatly on the number of pins and type of mounting. Understanding how these things go wrong and what to do about it is pretty important as they are a common failure point. There are two kinds that are common in laptops. The drawer style and the hinge style.
1. If you force the ribbon cable out of the holder because your not sure how it releases you will remove the conductive trace from the ribbon cable and the cable will then not work. Not really a connector issue but you could also damage the connector pins. where the cable meets the connector.
2. Broken hinge - If it just doesnt want to open and breaks instead then look for a donor connector. Break the sidewalls off the donor connector and remove the top hinge piece. You can carefully insert this into the existing broken one. Just have to be very careful.
3. Laptop overheating - This brings me to my current repair. I have seen this twice now in about 4 years or so. The rating on the connectors is suppose to be 85C.
Dell Latitude e6510 Laptop - The connector for the keyboard/touch pad is centered just to the right of the processor/graphics area. Only exception is that it is on the other side of the board. The schematic diagram for this connector is here:
Actual Pic:
What appears to have happened is that possibly thru heat the plastic base under the pins actually melted over the bottom pins (6-16) and also the pins because they were under pressure from the top hinge, Sunk down and lost their contact. At least that is what I see. Whats interesting is that pins 1-5 still make contact. Pins 17/18 are on a separate connector actually.
In this case, Cleaning is not going to fix things. I have gone in with a needle and scrapped away the plastic from the top of pins. Its a very thin coating and you can miss it if you do not have a scope.
The real fix for this is replacing the connector I guess. After researching this a lot it helps if you have the schematic of the board. If you look at the highlighted (green) under the connector - that is the actual part number of the connector. Looking on ebay, Digikey, Mouser you will find a lot of connectors and its probably better to use this part number when looking. Matching the characteristics of the connector is hit or miss.
Getting it off a donor board if you have it might be a problem. You have to be extremely careful to not melt the plastic when desoldering it. So, Might be better to just stock up on these a bit. For that hit up ebay and if you have the part number then make sure they are compatible. When you do a search of the actual part number you can view the datasheet on the connector.
This connector is made by Hirose Electric. Here is how the part number breaks down to help you find a compatible connector:
Mine is a: HRS_FH12-16S-0P5SH(55)~D
In my case I have to order it. Cost looks to be 10 pcs for 5 bucks. However, It comes from China and its going to be at least 2 weeks.
Now for some of you - You have more information on these connectors.
coffee
1. If you force the ribbon cable out of the holder because your not sure how it releases you will remove the conductive trace from the ribbon cable and the cable will then not work. Not really a connector issue but you could also damage the connector pins. where the cable meets the connector.
2. Broken hinge - If it just doesnt want to open and breaks instead then look for a donor connector. Break the sidewalls off the donor connector and remove the top hinge piece. You can carefully insert this into the existing broken one. Just have to be very careful.
3. Laptop overheating - This brings me to my current repair. I have seen this twice now in about 4 years or so. The rating on the connectors is suppose to be 85C.
Dell Latitude e6510 Laptop - The connector for the keyboard/touch pad is centered just to the right of the processor/graphics area. Only exception is that it is on the other side of the board. The schematic diagram for this connector is here:
Actual Pic:
What appears to have happened is that possibly thru heat the plastic base under the pins actually melted over the bottom pins (6-16) and also the pins because they were under pressure from the top hinge, Sunk down and lost their contact. At least that is what I see. Whats interesting is that pins 1-5 still make contact. Pins 17/18 are on a separate connector actually.
In this case, Cleaning is not going to fix things. I have gone in with a needle and scrapped away the plastic from the top of pins. Its a very thin coating and you can miss it if you do not have a scope.
The real fix for this is replacing the connector I guess. After researching this a lot it helps if you have the schematic of the board. If you look at the highlighted (green) under the connector - that is the actual part number of the connector. Looking on ebay, Digikey, Mouser you will find a lot of connectors and its probably better to use this part number when looking. Matching the characteristics of the connector is hit or miss.
Getting it off a donor board if you have it might be a problem. You have to be extremely careful to not melt the plastic when desoldering it. So, Might be better to just stock up on these a bit. For that hit up ebay and if you have the part number then make sure they are compatible. When you do a search of the actual part number you can view the datasheet on the connector.
This connector is made by Hirose Electric. Here is how the part number breaks down to help you find a compatible connector:
Mine is a: HRS_FH12-16S-0P5SH(55)~D
In my case I have to order it. Cost looks to be 10 pcs for 5 bucks. However, It comes from China and its going to be at least 2 weeks.
Now for some of you - You have more information on these connectors.
coffee
