NviGate Systems
Well-Known Member
- Reaction score
- 1,022
- Location
- Vancouver
This was for a friend, he always has a closet full of old tech that gets neglected and forgotten. (Found a Blackberry Play tablet in the closet, still works!)
So, he had these two cameras and wanted any photos if they had anything on them.
Because I couldn't find chargers (well to be honest I didn't bother looking as last time I tried something like this the charger ended being the most expensive part of the repair) I decided to do an exploratory.
Opened each of them up so I could get alligator clips on the battery terminals. Not thinking clearly, I supplied 3.7V at .5A. Turns on then off. Good start. I increased the amps but suddenly realized that 3.7 is like a dead battery level. Changed to 3.9, got a full power up then blinking red light meaning battery low. Upped voltage to 4.3 and had full battery logo.
The Kodak was easy as when the shells come apart it reveals the battery compartment. (Kodak KKL-863) Plus the LCD assembly stays in place.
The Samsung was a pain, but fun. (L200)
Once the covers come off, you have to disconnect the LCD and Control Panel and remove them. Then you have to remove the metal back shielding so you can safely attach alligator clips. Then you very daintily re attach the LCD and Control Panel so you can navigate the menus.
So, it is possible to bypass batteries on most devices by attaching power leads if you have a good PSU. Mine is a DROK 150W with LCD and full Volt & Amp setting. Even has a wattage ceiling so you can't go above a certain level by accident.
Such repairs are probably few and far between, but now and then they came in handy.
So, he had these two cameras and wanted any photos if they had anything on them.
Because I couldn't find chargers (well to be honest I didn't bother looking as last time I tried something like this the charger ended being the most expensive part of the repair) I decided to do an exploratory.
Opened each of them up so I could get alligator clips on the battery terminals. Not thinking clearly, I supplied 3.7V at .5A. Turns on then off. Good start. I increased the amps but suddenly realized that 3.7 is like a dead battery level. Changed to 3.9, got a full power up then blinking red light meaning battery low. Upped voltage to 4.3 and had full battery logo.
The Kodak was easy as when the shells come apart it reveals the battery compartment. (Kodak KKL-863) Plus the LCD assembly stays in place.
The Samsung was a pain, but fun. (L200)
Once the covers come off, you have to disconnect the LCD and Control Panel and remove them. Then you have to remove the metal back shielding so you can safely attach alligator clips. Then you very daintily re attach the LCD and Control Panel so you can navigate the menus.
So, it is possible to bypass batteries on most devices by attaching power leads if you have a good PSU. Mine is a DROK 150W with LCD and full Volt & Amp setting. Even has a wattage ceiling so you can't go above a certain level by accident.
Such repairs are probably few and far between, but now and then they came in handy.
